Routes to Your Roots

The Kings County Museum Genealogy Centre

2010-12-23T20:21:42Z

It was still dark when I woke at the Hillsdale House Inn in Annapolis Royal. Although we had finished filming at the O'Dell House Museum the day before, we had decided to keep our accommodations in this beautiful town for the duration of our trip. I was still hours away from my complimentary breakfast and drive to Kentville, to the Kings County Museum, so it seemed the perfect chance to take a foggy stroll along St. George Street to the Evangeline Trail and across the Annapolis River to Granville Ferry.

All was calmly quiet until I approached the Annapolis Tidal Power Station on a small island at the mouth of the Annapolis River. I wasn't aware at how unique this station was. It boasts being the first and only tidal generating plant in North America. The benefits seem obvious to harnessing the power of the Bay of Fundy and the world's highest tides. Walking by at full tide was deafening. The Bay of Fundy squeezed its way through a bridge-sized grate, gushing to the point of explosion creating a lake of foam. During my walk, the sun rose dimly through the fog and disappeared into the overcast sky. Weather reports were favourable but having spent three rainy and dark days on the road already, I wasn't holding my breath for sunshine.

We took the Evangeline Trail to the 101, proceeding past Bridgetown, Middleton and an expanse of empty farm fields scattered with roadside produce shops and U-pick pumpkin patches before reaching Kentville.

Kentville was at its vibrant peak of Fall foliage. Many houses displayed pumpkin people: slapdash mannequins with pumpkin heads dressed garishly and comically posed. Soon, we pulled off Main Street to Cornwallis, to the old brick courthouse that is now the Kings County Museum.

This impressive building, originally built in 1903, actually functioned as the King's County seat of justice for over 75 years. We were met in the foyer by Bria Stokesbury, the Curator, who was eager to begin filming. She took us on an impromptu tour and led us through countless rooms. We toured everything from local geology, wildlife exhibits, prolific displays on Acadian culture and the New England Planters, paintings, old artifacts, books, hooked rugs, old toys, even several rooms loaded with antique furniture and a Victorian Parlour. One room had a Huntington organ, built in Quebec in 1886.

My favourite room in the museum was the courtroom exhibit. I sat in the judge's seat with an air of importance and imaged what cases of intrigue and scandal occurred within the last hundred years.

After meeting many of the museums volunteers, Bria took us to the genealogy centre in the basement. The centre was large and well equipped to help anyone interested in history. Besides having an extensive collection of published genealogies, census records, township books, rolls upon rolls of vital statistics on microfilm, there was information on virtually every community that had ever existed in King's County. The research area offered public computers, ample seating and a number of knowledgeable volunteers ready to assist.

There was no shortage of picturesque places in this quaint town. I was amazed with the weather as I walked out of the museum. It was a record breaking 26C and the sky was unbelievably cloudless. The autumn foliage had saturated the town with a continuous backdrop of yellow, orange and red. Susan and I drove to the Oak Grove Cemetery next. This cemetery was pretty and serene. We were lucky to be there on such a perfect day. The cemetery sits atop rolling hills and shelters the gravestones from any street or house. I snapped a few photos of the large Celtic cross marking the grave of Arthur Hamilton Wentworth Eaton, a notable poet, priest, educator and historian who was born in Kentville.

With our days filming finished, we drove back to Annapolis Royal still reveling in the beautiful weather. For dinner, we decided on the Bistro East, a relatively new restaurant on St. George Street that was recommended to us by Ryan Scranton, the curator of the O'Dell House Museum. Dinner was great. We started with strawberries and brie and were prescribed a bottle of Nova Scotian wine from the general manager, Janice Buckler. She was an extraordinary host: pleasant, funny, well versed in cuisine and the Annapolis area. Susan and I finished with their delicious Thai pizza. The restaurant's atmosphere was surprisingly urban and chic. I highly suggest stopping by.

The following day, we stopped at the Historic Gardens in Annapolis Royal to film the grounds. It didn't seem to matter that we were there during the fall; the fading garden was still a pleasure to view. We continued home to Halifax feeling fortunate to have visited yet another beautiful region in Nova Scotia.

The O'Dell House Museum, Annapolis Royal

2010-11-15T14:43:11Z

I rose from bed thinking there would be a sunrise to photograph and that I'd best take advantage of it. It was just after 6 a.m. and still dark as night outside. I checked my laptop for sunrise times and was disappointed to learn it wouldn't happen until 7:50. But it did give me enough time to shower and eat a snack before heading out. I got outside and was again, disappointed, this time with the weather. I remember thinking desperately, "How long can it rain?" The sky seemed to teeter between heavy and light rain.

The Hillsdale House Inn is on St. George Street (the oldest town street in Canada) and only a few minutes away from Canada's first National Historic site and museum, Fort Anne. I walked through the adjacent graveyard before reaching the grounds and followed a narrow trail along the top ridge of a fortifying bank leading up to the fort. After snapping a few photos of the main structure and examining the monument of Pierre Dugua de Mons, the French merchant, explorer and Lieutenant General for Acadia and New France, I made it back to the Inn.

Susan and I ate our breakfasts at the Hillsdale House Inn. It consisted of eggs (sunny side up), strips of bacon, homemade brown bread and slices of orange, kiwi and pineapple. There were also fresh muffins and plenty of strong coffee.

We drove down Lower St. George Street, past dozens of historic homes and shops towards the O'Dell House Museum. Ryan Scranton was waiting behind a glass counter, shopkeeper style, in the main entrance room of the house. I could see a doorway leading to an archives and office and another passage leading to the rest of the museum. We all hit if off well. Ryan began about rich history of Annapolis Royal stating, "If there's anyone not interested in history, they haven't heard the history of this place." He was really friendly, easy-going and perfectly suited to his profession. He led us through many rooms, pointing to items and explaining their history and use. His story about how the museum attained two Folk paintings was engrossing. The paintings were innocuously hanging in the parlour. After being publicly outbid on the art and fearing that they had lost it, a surprise donor came forward and at the last possible moment, gave enough money for the museum to purchase them. The Province had stepped in and provided a grant to allow the paintings to stay in Annapolis Royal. I really got the feeling from this museum that each piece had its own long and exiting story. The depth and variety of items was impressive.

Upstairs, we viewed the remaining rooms including one filled with the wood carvings of Eugine "Bud" Hamm. Ryan talked about seeing the actual house where Bud had lived and likened it to the discovery of the Maud Lewis House. "Every horizontal surface was carved and every vertical surface had something hanging from it or was painted." I couldn't believe the photos, how jam-packed the house was with art. The exhibit at the O'Dell House attempts to recreate this overwhelming abundance of artwork. A large wall partially divided the room to guide you in a circle. There were lots of great pieces, some simple and crude, and others with masterful workmanship. Ryan also regaled us with stories from Bud's eccentric life. He was truly, a great Nova Scotian artist.

By the time Ryan had finished most of his filming, Susan and I were ready to take his recommendation to eat at a restaurant called Leo's Cafe just up the street. It was another one of these local gems, a professionally run sandwich shop with freshly baked bread and desserts. I ordered the towering clubhouse sandwich while Susan chose the curry chicken sandwich. We drank more coffee and lamented the poor weather.

Afterward, we rejoined Ryan, this time at the Sinclair Inn, a National Historic Site, which was temporarily converted into a haunted house. Ryan was a zombie and along with a cast of ghosts and ghouls had opened the house to the community in the spirit of Halloween. I walked through countless spider webs and black lights while Susan was transfixed on the severed limbs seen through the glass floor. It was a lot of fun.

There was still the vault to film but it wasn't located in the O'Dell House but at the old courthouse next to Fort Anne. At the courthouse, we're buzzed in through a secure entrance and down a hallway to a huge vault door. Ryan swung the heavy door open and walked into the shoebox shaped space. Among other things, he pulled a collection of town maps before and after the fire during the 1920s, old newspapers, various photographs, journals, diaries, township books, school records and church registries.

Our last stop was at the Garrison Burial Grounds where Ryan braved the rain to tell us about the oldest tombstone west of Newfoundland. How old do you think it is? Watch the video above and find out.

The weather forecast for the following day seemed like the answer to my prayers. "Expect unseasonable heat and sun," I heard. We still had our final stop, the Kings County Museum Genealogy Centre in Kentville and another day to take in more sites in Annapolis Royal including the Historical Gardens, the Annapolis Tidal Generating Station and Bistro East, a highly recommended restaurant on St. George Street and only a few minutes away from our Bed and Breakfast.

Centre acadien de l'Université Sainte-Anne

2010-11-08T16:15:29Z

The weather still hadn't changed for the better by morning. From the patio of my second floor room I could barely see the wharf through the fog and although the rain wasn't spilling, it was steady. An older gentleman walking down Digby's Water Street suggested, "If you wanted good weather, you should have hung a rosary on your clothesline a few days ago." At that point, I would have been willing to try anything.

We drove back to Church Point, to the Université Sainte-Anne and took refuge in the canteen of the newly built Cultural and Interpretive Centre. They had great coffee and the aroma of freshly baked cinnamon rolls was in the air. Shortly after arriving, we met Elaine LeBlanc who amazingly introduced herself (among other things) as the genealogist, archivist and secretary for the Centre acadien de l'Université Sainte-Anne. Elaine was energetic, funny and told us immediately that she was unfazed in front or behind a camera. She told us an amusing story of how during meetings and other events she would invariably use her deep, commanding voice to gain control of the room, regardless of its size.

Elaine took us upstairs to her office and study area, then to a research library and, finally, to the vault. The Centre's mandate is to acquire and preserve all information pertaining to the history and culture of the Acadians, especially those in Nova Scotia. We looked at many resources including the remarkable Catalogue of Families of Saint Mary's Bay of 1818-1829 and an original Fabric register dating to 1799. There were family files, publications, scrapbooks, Church Registers, charts for Acadian families and a large library of Acadian history.

Afterwards, we were extremely fortunate to meet Nicole Boudreau who offered to take us through the Acadian Exhibit Halls and explain some of the interesting stories of the area. She was fantastic and didn't disappoint. In particular, there were two stories that she told us that were utterly fascinating. First was the story of Celestin Trahan, or Cy for short, who during the late 1880s and in his forties was believed to be possessed by the Devil. His powers included the ability to shape shift into the form of animals, including a bear, a white horse and a large black dog. He apparently traveled across the bay on a piece of bark that would float just above the water. Using this means of transportation, he was able to attend dances in Boston and throughout the province. He would also amuse himself by watching people leave towards the Digby Neck only to appear waiting for them when they arrived. As the story goes, seven years after receiving these strange powers, he was exorcised by a local priest. With the final blessing of a priest he spit from his body a lizard that scurried away and escaped capture. He returned to normal after.

Another story Nicole told us was that of mysterious stranger who in 1863 was found washed up on the shore of Sandy Cove, his legs surgically amputated above the knees and with only a small ration of ships biscuits. He would eventually be identified as an Italian who spoke some French but he offered no explanations about his life or how he ended up on the shore. While this story is mysterious, I think it illustrates the generosity and compassion of those Acadians who invited this man, known only as Jérôme, to spend the rest of his life under their care.

I bought Nicole's book, "The Strength of a People: Acadian history in general terms" for more of these wonderful stories from the area. She graciously signed it for me before arranging a tour of St. Mary's Church and suggesting that we see another beautiful church, St. Bernard Church in Saint Bernard, and the oldest Acadian cemetery, in Major Point.

While St. Mary's Church is striking from the outside, the inside is utterly breathtaking. It was built over two years, from 1903 to 1905 by over 1500 volunteers. The master carpenter, Léo Melanson, could neither read nor write but designed the church from blueprints of a stone church from the parish priest's native hometown in France. A French Canadian artist named Louis St. Hilaire painted the religious motifs on the ceiling but was so afraid of heights it is said that he would consume an entire bottle of wine to build his nerve before starting his work on the 63 ft ceiling. I couldn't imagine passing through the area without seeing this amazing church.

Our last two remaining stops for the area began in St. Bernard at the Saint Bernard Church. This church was made of Shelburne granite and constructed between 1910 and 1942 by local residents. After filming the exterior of this massive church we continued down the shore to Major Point, to locate the site of the oldest Acadian graveyard. It was a nice spot, no more than a dozen wooden crosses and miniature church surround by a white picket fence. The rain had finally stopped although the sky was now darkly overcast. We walked around the area, to the ocean where the waves crashed furiously generating a salty mist.

With the filming finished, we were finished for the day and exhausted. Susan drove to Annapolis Royal where we were planning to spend the next three nights at the historic Hillsdale House Inn. It was exciting to think that although we had visited so many cool places, only the first of the three archives were finished and there was still much to do in the Annapolis Valley.

The Annapolis Valley and Acadian Shore

2010-11-02T13:56:00Z

Early in the morning Susan and I left, laden with coffees and homemade sandwiches. We drove for hours up the 101, past Windsor, Wolfville, Kentville and to the scenic Evangeline Trail. It wasn't until after we saw the signs for Digby that we started to think about a rest. Fortunately we chose Weymouth and Sissiboo Landing. The building was two-storied and shingled, resting alongside the Sissiboo River and an asphalt parking lot. Beyond that, across the river was an old railway bridge rusted red brown and surrounded by a mosaic of fall foliage. We parked at the Visitor Information Centre and walked inside.

Weymouth resides in-between the Acadian Shores and Annapolis Valley and represents a cross section of cultures currently or previously part of that area. Usually you can see their five flags flying, representing Mi'kmaq First Nations, United Empire Loyalist, Black Loyalist, Acadians and the New France settlers. We were greeted warmly by Jeanne, an employee . She was friendly and astute, first explaining the cultural significance of the site and, then, making suggestions of noteworthy landmarks we should see as we continued our drive. When we left, I was piled high with pamphlets and rack cards of tourism literature.

We continued along the Acadian Shore until reaching Church Point, home of the Université Sainte-Anne, Nova Scotia's only francophone university in the province. At the border of the campus we could easily discern the 56 meter spire of St. Mary's Parish Church. St. Mary's Church has the distinction of being North America's largest and tallest wooden church. So spectacular was this church that from a distance, it seemed to me, that we were approaching Cinderella's castle.

The overcast sky that followed us from Halifax lightened enough to allow filming without such an ominous and gloomy composition. We trekked around the campus filming everything; long slow zooms to the university entrance, reflections in the ponds and sweeping pans of the entire grounds. We also filmed the cemetery across the street.

There were no meetings scheduled today so Susan suggested that we turn back towards Digby where we had arranged to stay at the Dockside Suites, on the waterfront overlooking the impressive Fisherman's Wharf. It was only a short drive back to Digby. We stopped a few times, first at a scenic spot along the coast and then a farmers market at the Joseph-et-Marie-Dugas Municipal Park. We bought the fixings for a modest dinner at a grocery store and retired to our respective rooms for some peace before tomorrow's busy day.

Judique and the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre

2010-10-22T17:34:49Z

Thursday, September 30 was my second morning waking at the Tulloch Inn on the Western edge of Lake Ainslie. I met Susan in the dining room. Once again, we were the first guests to arrive for breakfast. Keith took our orders, poured coffee and inquired as to our plans while his wife Elizabeth prepared a plate of pancakes with a side of sliced apples, bananas and oranges.

I was excited today. We were driving to the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in Judique. I have strong family ties to Cape Breton and can remember attending ceilidhs as a child. This archive is different from the others I've visited in that its mandate is to preserve, educate and promote Cape Breton's traditional Celtic Heritage in many ways, including through performance. This meant that we were in for a show. I was also interested in ordering from their kitchen. They offer a menu of upscale pub fare with a lot of my favourites.

We drove from Lake Ainslie through Mabou, past Port Hood and eventually arrived at the Centre in Judique. The Celtic Music Interpretive Centre is an impressive and modern building. Next to the Centre is the Judique Community Centre and across from it is the Tartan Gardens, a beautifully landscaped park of flowerbeds and paths that converge on Rankin Gazebo.

Virginia MacIssac, the archivist, was waiting at the Centre when we arrived. Virginia is very approachable and knowledgeable but with a mischievous grin that reflects her enthusiasm and good humour. She immediately spoke about the Celtic Colours Festival taking place in Cape Breton and also to the new addition to their museum, the outfit worn by Ashley MacIsaac during his performance at the Vancouver Olympics.

We started filming Virginia in the Tom Rankin Exhibit Room where the public can experience the songs, dance and instruments of "Cape Breton music." After that, we viewed some of the old documents and photos she selected. By then, we could hear the fiddle and piano from the main stage and dining room of the Centre. People were flooding through the doors, ordering food and nodding to the music.

We took our table near the stage to see Allan Dewar on piano and Mike Hall on fiddle. The entire dining room was crowded; I couldn't see an empty chair anywhere. I ordered the Haddock Burger with a Greek salad while Susan opted for the Panini. Many of the patrons around me were either hoisting spoons of soups or sandwiches or simply clapping to the music. Shoulders shook, fingers twitched and feet tapped in unison from everyone around me. The atmosphere was fantastic.

After we finished our lunch, Susan and I set out to film the two major cemeteries in Judique. The first, St. Andrew's Cemetery, was easy to find only 100 meters down the road from Centre. Many of the oldest tombstones were next to the church while the majority of stones were across the road in a beautifully landscaped ground spotted with impressive statues.

The other cemetery, St. Michael's Pioneer Cemetery, the oldest cemetery in Judique, was a little more difficult to locate. We drove down an easy-to-miss dirt road between two properties called Walkers Cove Road. At the end of the road is a small parking lot near the shore and access to the Trans Canada Trail. After parking, we were approached by a fox that was obviously used to receiving handouts from people. It sniffed and eyed us curiously and approached without hesitation. Susan threw some pieces of bread that it gobbled up immediately. After a quick walk 500 meters or so south along the trail we came to the cemetery. If the cemetery had been easy to access it wouldn't have felt as special to see. There were only about 30 tombstones although the grass was cut and well-maintained. We filmed the area enjoying the bright sun and seacoast breeze.

We stopped again briefly in Whycocomagh again to stock up on dinner fixings before heading back to the Tulloch. The sun set before we arrived and I could feel the swoosh of bats bombing past my head as I walked from the car to the B&B. I retreated to the balcony from my room and enjoyed a glass wine while digesting my day.

I woke the following day feeling great about my trip. Everyone had received us so well. Cape Breton always feels to me like Nova Scotian concentrate, like the best of the province squeezed into this northern island. For all the natural beauty, great food, and abundant wildlife, it's the people that make Cape Breton special, the hospitality that greets you everywhere on the island. We drove home to Halifax but took our time. I stopped at a local bakery to buy frozen chicken pot pies while Susan bought tins of peanut brittle for her daughters. The Fall foliage was vivid, every hill seems splattered with a mixture of random colours. We'll be back again soon but not soon enough.

Port Hood and the Chestico Museum

2010-10-04T14:52:07Z

It's been a great summer in that I've been able to visit Cape Breton several times. This time I was pretty excited to visit the southeastern part of the island, specifically Port Hood, Judique and Mabou. Susan and I were booked at the Tulloch Inn on the Western edge of Lake Ainslie and would be spending two full days at the Chestico Museum in Harbourview and the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in Judique. I was also hoping to see the Fall colours that Cape Breton is known for as well as the wildlife, starry skies and friendly people.

We had a pretty good drive. We held off grabbing coffees until Truro, stocked up on food at the Superstore in Antigonish and ate lunch at Auld's Cove before crossing the Causeway. Just before Port Hood we stopped at the Chestico Museum and met Joanne Watts who suggested that we keep driving into Port Hood to the wharf at Murphys Pond.

It was perfect timing. The bluefin tuna season is only a couple of days in and on the second day, there were several fishing boats coming in with their expensive catch. I was amazed at how friendly everyone was at the docks. The fishermen at the processing plant invited me to set up my camera and watch as they raised an 800 lb tuna from the boat to a forklift. Inside the processing plant, the fish was measured, weighed and cleaned. Within minutes it was submerged into a tub of ice. Within 18-24 hours, after a quality test and a long plane ride, it would be receiving bids on the floor of some Japanese fish market.

It seemed almost like a festival. As the boat glided in people started appearing. There were adults and children everywhere, family and relatives of the fishermen and onlookers eager to ooh and agh at the tuna's impressive size.

We stayed at the wharf until the sun began to set, our rumbling stomachs eventually setting us into motion. Almost an hour later we arrived at the Tulloch Inn in West Lake Ainslie. The inn was remote and surrounded by picturesque landscapes. We met the friendly owners Elizabeth and Keith MacPhee before settling into our excellent rooms.

I woke early to see the sun rising above Lake Ainslie, the largest freshwater lake in Nova Scotia. Susan met me in the dining room for our complimentary breakfast before heading out for the day. It was a simple breakfast: eggs, bacon and toast. A little tomato to garnish. Lots of juice and coffee helped.

Susan drove to the Chestico Museum. Fall had certainly begun, trees were beginning to change colour and few were bursting with stark contrast almost neon and unnaturally possible.

Cathy Gillis and Joanne Watts were waiting for us when we arrived at the Chestico Museum. Originally the Harbourview school house, this building housed items and records dealing with the history and culture of the Port Hood area. The museum itself was not large but dense with exhibits and displays. There was a display on the British Home Child, an enormous collection of religious items including an entire wall of Nun photographs and mannequins dressed as clergy. There were old tools, household items, dishware and furnishings. The most massive collection of clothing irons I've ever seen dated back 200 years. As someone who loves typography, I was especially drawn to the old printing press that belonged to a "Port Hood Greetings" printer D. W. Jones.

Both Cathy and Joanne made great models for our videos. They showed us around the building and then through a few interesting items in their archives. Cathy told us about the Rev. Donald MacPherson, the first Catholic chaplain from the Diocese of Antigonish who went overseas after enlisting in 1915. We saw photos of Angus L. MacDonald's house and the oldest surviving diploma from St. Francis Xavier University dated 1874. There were personal and business records, photos, genealogies, newspapers, school registers and too many more to mention.

For lunch, Susan and I drove only a few minutes down the road to Sandeannie's Bakery and Tea Room. I had a fantastic chicken sandwich on fresh, whole wheat bread and possibly the best cinnamon bun I've ever had. The owners, Bernadine and Sandy Rankin, are friendly and funny and gave us ideas of scenic spots in the area where we could film. I was extremely impressed with this place. I vowed to recommend it and return some day.

Joanne suggested that we find Father Donald MacPerson's tombstone at the St. Peter's Parish Cemetery. The cemetery was located above a number of sandy beaches facing Port Hood Island. There is nothing quite so affecting as a windswept graveyard, tucked in a corner of the coastline, with patches of tall bending grass on the steep slope to the shore. It was breathtaking. I found Father MacPherson's grave and took a couple of photos. Then, we continued further along Main Street until it turned to Marble Hill Rd. From the highest point of the hill we could see all of the town and adjacent island. I spent several minutes scanning the area with my video camera. Also before leaving I quickly snapped a photograph of the Peter Smyth House, one of Port Hood's oldest and most impressive homes dating back to the 1850s. It was a small, stone building along Main Street.

Having finished our day of filming, Susan and I drove to Whycocomagh to the Farmer's Daughter Country Market and picked up some bread, cheese and other fixings for dinner. On the winding road to Lake Ainslie we were stopped by a couple of bold foxes on the road apparently looking for food. They approached the car gingerly and weren't intimidated by my camera.

It was just after dawn when we returned to the Tulloch. I was happy to have my spacious room and gigantic bed waiting for me. Tomorrow, I'm off to the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in Judique.

Musée des Acadiens des Pubnicos et Centre de recherche

2010-09-07T15:29:37Z

On our last full day in the Yarmouth and Acadian Shores region, we packed the car in Yarmouth and drove the winding shoreline stretch of the Lighthouse Route to Pubnico and eventually West Pubnico to the Musée des Acadiens des Pubnicos et Centre de recherche. The last few days had been marred by overcast skies and dull, straining sunlight but today couldn't have been better. The landscape was saturated with colour beneath a cloudless, deep blue sky. Susan and I arrived early at the museum and research centre that was housed in an Acadian homestead, circa 1864.

Many of the archives and museums that I've visited in the province are successfully run and supported by volunteers from the community. The Musée des Acadiens had a large group of people waiting for us on arrival, many local history buffs, curious onlookers and women waiting to take part in the quilting bee that was starting shortly. At the front of the crowd was Bernice d'Entremont, the Program Director, and Pauline d'Entremont, the Chairperson of the Research Centre. We began filming almost immediately and were daunted by the magnitude and variety of exhibits detailing post expulsion Acadian history.

The Musée des Acadiens is a lively place that welcomes visitors warmly and immerses them in rich Acadian history. There were many things that caught eye including an impressive collection of antique cameras (over 300!), an original printing press loaded with type for Le Petit Courrier, Nova Scotia's only French newspaper, native items, farming tools, school displays, and many other rooms loaded with artifacts and items from life hundreds of years ago.

Bernice and Pauline took turns showing various genealogical resources including an impressive database of gravestone information and GPS coordinates, old shipping lists, genealogies, family bibles and a seemingly endless supply of old photographs. I was amazed with the original land grants, dated 1770, 1771 and 1784, probably some of the most interesting and best preserved documents I've seen in Nova Scotia.

In the rear of the museum, Susan and I were shown the Acadian garden by students dressed in traditional clothes. Afterwords, we traveled down the road to St. Pierre's Cemetery where the gravestone of Father Clarence d'Entremont rests. He was a historian and prolific collector of Acadian archives who donated his massive collection to the Musée des Acadiens on his death.

There were a few last minutes places that I wanted to see before leaving Pubnico. I had heard of the impressive wind farm that housed 17 turbines at Pubnico Point as well as Dennis Point Wharf, the largest commercial fishing port in Atlantic Canada. We grabbed delicious milkshakes from Le Creamy Treat, in Pubnico Head, and were able to briefly visit the nearby Acadian historical village. I wanted to stay longer everywhere but the day was fading and we were expected back in Halifax after our week long expedition.

Now that we've finished filming in Southern Nova Scotia, we're ready to travel to Cape Breton in late September. Over the next few weeks I'll be posting some of the videos Susan and I have taken during our trips as well as our upcoming Cape Breton trip.

The Yarmouth County Museum and Archives

2010-08-23T13:23:51Z

Despite an ominous forecast for the day, I woke and spent my early hours sitting in the gazebo behind the Guest-Lovitt House, our Bed & Breakfast. Yesterday, I bought a book at the Argyle Court House gift shop entitled, "Historical Sketches of Glenwood and the Argyles" which was written in 1941 and full of interesting recollections of life throughout Yarmouth County. After a pot of coffee, Susan and I walked down Parade Street to Collins Street where the museum complex was located. The complex contained, among other things, the Pelton-Fuller House and Yarmouth County Museum and Archives.

Immediately upon entering the museum I was amazed with the enormous space, elegant ceiling and my eyes were drawn to the 3300 lbs Fresnal lens high above the rest of the collection. I was especially interested in the vast amount of ships' portraits. There were period rooms dividing the open space and all manner of glass cases filled with artifacts. We were taken through a number of adjoining rooms, past a Bluenose display and a hallway filled with antique instruments to the research area. We were warmly met by Jamie Serran, the archivist, whom we've met a few times during the past year. Jamie was great to work with. Her youthful exuberance, cheerful nature and professionalism made the whole process exceptionally smooth.

After filming the grounds which included a historic church and converted Victorian home, the Pelton-Fuller House, Jamie took us through a plethora of documents including old chuch records, greetings cards and a collection of photographs by Bob Brooks documenting the polio vacination trails in Wedgeport, 1961. We finished up by filming the incredible collection of early vehicles in the museum.

We enjoyed a late lunch in Frost Park which sits alongside the waterfront between Main and Water Street. The park boasts a spectacular three tier fountain. Luckily after eating, the sky cleared giving us ideal conditions to vist Cape Forchu lighthouse, the iconic symbol of Yarmouth. The drive there was scenic: we passed beaches, fishing wharfs, and stacks of lobster traps marking the end of the season. Upon arrival at the Cape Forchu light station I could easily see why it was one of the most photographed light houses in Canada.

Jamie recommended that we visit the Yarmouth Mountain Cemetary which was established in 1860. Of particular interest was the monument of the Hon. Herbert Huntington erected after his death with an epataph written by Joseph Howe. The grounds was enhanced with magnificent trees and the bells from the Richie Memorial Chapel, could be heard every fifteen minutes.

Afterwards we returned home to the Guest-Lovitt House. Tomorrow we're off to Pubnico for a truly Acadian experience.

Tusket and the Argyle Township Court House & Archives

2010-08-16T14:55:47Z

We began the day in the ornate and highly decorated dining room of the Guest-Lovitt House in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. Our previous day had been marred by gray skies before the Yarmouth fog rolled in, erased the horizon and blurred everything in between. Today, however, was a day to write home about. The sky was perfectly blue and the sun, perfectly yellow.

Breakfast involved local sausages, smoked bacon, homemade brown bread with choices of local jams and eggs how I chose them. Big day, big breakfast. Susan and I took our rental ride out of the city the short skip to Tusket where sits the Argyle Township Court House & Archives. The archive was originally located in the Court House there but since 2006 had relocated to the former Seventh-Day Adventist Church and become one of the most modern archival facilities I've ever seen. It was a beautiful spot: two old historic buildings separated by an expansive green field and across from the choppy Tusket River.

Peter Crowell is the Municipal Historian and Archivist who along with a few hired students filled the main research area of the church. By the time we walked in, he had already laid out several old volumes, ledgers and photographs for us to film. He was on the ball, script in hand and eager to show us around. We filmed him all over the grounds: in front of the church and museum, in the main research room, the vault and in the downstairs staff room. Peter is a really amazing guy, well spoken, cheery and someone with an obvious passion for history and archives. He told Susan and me about the extraordinary fundraising efforts he has done and guided us through the fascinating Court House across from the archives.

The Argyle Township Court House is the oldest standing courthouse in Canada. Peter said it was built in 1805. He said, "This was originally meant to be a jail, the court house was added as almost an afterthought." The only windows in the jail area were angled skylights with dark metal bars on each opening. The cell doors were unbelievably heavy. On the top floor was a standard courtroom but I was amazed when I sat in the judge's chair and could see the river out of all seven of the windows. It was a perfect seat.

After filming, Peter handed us a map to a local graveyard so we drove a sort of gravel switchback up a grassy hill to a plateau that contained about 120 tombstones. The graveyard was different from the ones we had visited in Shelburne, not nearly as elaborate or decorative but with a solemn simplicity.

After finishing at the graveyard in Tusket, we raced the sun to Pubnico to photograph the Musée des Acadiens des Pubnicos et Centre de recherche before returning to Yarmouth. We're not filming there until Thursday but squeezed in some filming time on account of the good weather.

When we returned to our B&B we were suddenly famished and exhausted. Before eating, the owner, Bruce Rogers offered us a ride in his 1913 Model T. It was just a quick tour of historic buildings in the downtown. Bruce drove us down an alleyway behind the Holy Trinity Anglican Church where at the right time of day, you could see the sun through the front and back sets of stained glass windows. It was a fun tour and great to learn some of the colourful history of Yarmouth. Tomorrow, we only have to walk a short distance to the Yarmouth County Museum to meet the head archivist, Jamie Seran. Stay tuned!

Liverpool and the Thomas Raddall Research Centre

2010-08-09T15:29:09Z

Once familiarity settles in it becomes so much easier to enjoy the details. I finished breakfast and took my last stroll down Dock Street to the Beandock for their fantastic coffee. It was a foggy morning but finally clearing after a week of mostly gray skies. Susan and I emptied our rooms and packed the car. We said our silent goodbyes to Shelburne and headed back onto Highway 103, this time west, retracing our previous path for an hour or so before reaching Liverpool.

Originally called Ogomkegea by the Mi'kmaqs meaning, "The Place of Departure," Liverpool is a beautiful town covered by the leaves of massive elm, chestnut and ash. We drove along Main Street until reaching an expansive lawn leading to the Queens County Museum and, smaller, Perkins House, built in 1766. We were met in the museum by Linda Rafuse, the museum manager, who was excited at the prospect of promoting her museum and archives.

The Thomas Raddall Research Centre is located in the back of the museum and is an impressive work area. Besides numerous tables, microfilm viewers, shelves and cabinets full of genealogies, family bibles, journals, diaries, vital statistics, church registers, the walls are adorned with images of notable historians, including, Mr. Thomas Raddall himself.

The museum is also impressive. It's hard to believe how much information is packed into this building, everything from the Oak Island mystery, to local geology, shipbuilding techniques, privateering, antiques, artifacts and examples of life hundreds of years ago. At the shop, I bought a synthetic raccoon hat while Susan bought tins of candy for her kids.

Linda showed many interesting items. She had a great way of telling old stories from Liverpool's past. The collection of Queens County gravestone images was amazing. Donated by one man they connected gravestone photographs with obituaries and sometimes more. There were dozens of binders filled with these photos and it was so easy to be drawn into its pages.

After the filming wrapped up, we drove to the end of Main Street where sits the strangely shaped, Fort Point lighthouse. I took a few photos with my five foot inflatable lobster. He was still doing alright, having survived lobster season and the Shelburne Lobster Festival.

It had long last become a beautiful day so we walked the grounds and admired the lighthouse before once again packing our bags and hitting the highway. Halifax was little more than an hour drive away. It had been an exhilarating week, so much exposure to things I'd taken for granted. To think that I had only travelled to the South Shore, merely one portion of the province and been staggered by the diversity of sights and activities to see and do. It still felt like the tip of the iceberg. I've resolved to return.

The Shelburne County Archives & Genealogical Society Resource Centre

2010-08-03T14:02:52Z

Today the Shelburne Harbour was thick with fog and the mist that hung in the air was enough to make your clothes wet. For breakfast I had the egg, bacon and tomato sandwich with a side of yogurt and fruit while Susan, repeated that she was a 'creature of habit' and ordered her usual, scrambled eggs, bacon and multigrain toast.

We walked from Dock Street up to Water Street, a main street that's under construction so busy with all manner of trucks and machinery, road blocks and workers. The Shelburne County Historical Archives & Genealogical Society is on the top floor of the old Fire Station which is now the town hall. We met with Kim Walker whom we've met on many different occasions. Kim is always one of our first picks for dealing with the public at trade shows. She's very personable, quick witted and extremely knowledgable about the history of the South Shore. Upon arriving she told us, "this room is where the firemen dances were held. There was an old restaurant across the street called the Ritz where the Chinese restaurant is now. People would move from the dance to the restaurant steadily all night. During the dances, you could feel the ground rumble and shake with all the people in attendance."

Today, the old dance floor bore no resemblance to what it once was. Now it was a fully functioning research centre complete with all the resources you would expect from an archives. There were several shelves of old books, microfilm viewers, filing cabinets, tables, computers and the walls were shelved with boxes of records or interesting pictures and paintings from the towns history.

Kim took us through a great collection of photographs, showed us records of ship building and ledgers which described early life in Shelburne. Her collection of family bibles was impressive. There was even a tiny bible from a wooden box which contained detailed notes of one particular family. She was busy while we were there, tending to the questions of a group of Americans doing research.

After we had finished filming, we took Kim's suggestion of checking out another two historic graveyards that were nearby. One was the Methodist Cemetery where there such names as, Swansburg, Grovestine, Deinstadt, Wesley and Irwin. Just a few minutes away was the provincially registered Trinity United Church where I was able to find the flat tomb of George Gracie, a merchant, ship owner, founder of a whaling company and member of the House of Assembly. He used to live in the Cooper's Inn, the B&B where Susan and I were currently staying. Kim had given me a list of the transcriptions from every stone so it was interesting to find some of the influential people from Shelburne's history.

Having finished our work, we finally chose to eat at one of the local restaurants and decided on The Sea Dog Saloon. Earlier in the day I had spoken briefly with the manager and owner, Allan Reid, who was interested to know what I was filming. He invited us both to stop by. At the Sea Dog I took our waitress's recommendation for the seafood chowder with homemade biscuits while Susan chose an enormous plate of nachos which we ultimately ended up sharing. The chowder was fantastic and the biscuits tasted as true to home cooking as I thought possible.

Tomorrow we're heading out to Liverpool to visit the Queen's County Museum and the Thomas Raddall Research Centre. Can't wait...

Finn Bower and the Shelburne County Archives

2010-07-26T12:40:35Z

Today was my second day waking in Shelburne. In my room is one of those newfangled Keurig single cup coffee makers, so I've been filling my mug, strolling outside and sitting on a ledge in the shadow of the Shelburne Barrel Factory, perhaps the last commercial barrel factory in Canada. Every day, someone has been pouring a line of bread crumbs to feed the flocks of pigeons and ducks that congregate on the building's roof. The overcast sky didn't seem to damper their appetites.

After breakfast, Susan and I were able to simply walk down Dock Street to the Shelburne County Museum and Archives. As I've already mentioned, Finn Bower, the museum's curator, was honored by the community yesterday for thirty years of exemplary service. I was looking forward to spending the day with her and her assistants, having only met them briefly on a couple different occasions. Before walking into museum and archives, I took a quick look at the Guild Hall, probably one of the coolest buildings in Shelburne, and next to the Ross-Thomson House.

Finn Bower holds history like a sponge and has an enthusiasm and exuberance that is ageless. Almost immediately after we arrived, she began pulling out old records: maps, books, documents and really wonderful old photos. It was intense and fascinating. She looked at me and asked, "Would you like to see the original land grant map for the town?" or "Have you ever seen Joseph Howe's signature?" Susan and I had only to mention a topic to send her scrambling off to the vault for some ancient, yellow document wrapped in Mylar or a thick, bounded book that could only be opened while wearing protective, white gloves. I remember sighing and saying after only a few hours, "I've got information overload." You can't help but to appreciate history while in Finn's presence. The interest she exudes is contagious.

Shelburne_Letter_Memories_of_a_Centenarian.pdf

She gave me a copy of a letter written by Margaret McKenna which she had read from during her speech at yesterday's event. Margaret was born in 1793 and had written the letter shortly after turning 100. She has quite a sense of humor and sharp recollection of life in Shelburne during those 100 years.

We finished by late afternoon and were recommended to view a number of tombstones from the Christ Church graveyard, an Anglican church only a few streets away. The graveyard at this church was said to contain some of the most prominent families from Shelburne. Susan and I walked up and cautiously roamed the grounds. Most tombstones were 18th century and included names likes, "Buskirk, Bell, Harding, Murphy, Ryer and Purney." Many had poetic inscriptions and spoke of tragedy and salvation. I was particularly interested in a monument surround by round, white stones recognizing Black Loyalists who had been buried on the site in unmarked graves.

I spent the evening enjoying the pleasant change in weather by taking a walking tour of the area. There was a great pamphlet available from the nearby Visitor Information Centre. Tomorrow, we're meeting Kim Walker at the Shelburne County Archives & Genealogical Society Resource Centre.

The Cape Sable Historical Society

2010-07-19T13:24:00Z

We started our day with a complimentary breakfast at the Cooper's Inn. The owners, Pat and Paul, were busy in the kitchen but Pat quickly appeared and welcomed us with menus and morning salutations. The menu was good; it had enough of the essential items with a few goodies to spice it up: cereal, yogurt, eggs, bacon, toast, French toast, pancakes and tons of fruit like mango, cantaloupe and cherries. Across the top of the menu was written, "Please choose any or all of the following items," practically daring me to eat until I burst.

Today's mission was to meet Brenda Maxwell at the Cape Sable Historical Society and film their video. Susan and I drove the twenty-five minute span to Barrington. There was a good omen almost immediately. Upon arriving in Barrington, Susan wandered over to a group of cattle grazing in a nearby field where, amazingly enough, a young white-tailed deer gingerly walked out oblivious before seeing us and suddenly darting into the thickness of the tree line.

The Cape Sable Heritage Society is housed in the old Court House in Barrington. It's in the center of a museum complex which includes the Barrington Woolen Mill Museum, the Old Meeting House and the Seal Island Light Museum. Brenda spent the morning helping a group of researchers with their genealogical concerns so we wandered through the grounds and finally to the Seal Island Light Museum. It was after June 1st so Susan and I were able to enter the museum now officially open for the tourism season. As I've mentioned before, the museum is actually a replica of the original top half of the Seal Island lighthouse. I walked up several steep flights of stairs, past relics and glass cases, until the last flight at the top opened and exposed the complex Fresnel lens. It was easily the size of a person. A large metal door opened outdoors into windy gusts and dizzying height. The view was incredible. From there, you could see so much.

Brenda was finally free so we began filming, having her talk about the holdings of this particular archives. They had everything from livestock records, obituaries, church registries, vital statistics, school records and many artifacts. I loved the family bibles. The illustrations had amazing detail and the handwriting itself was a work of art. While Susan and Brenda chatted, I began talking to one of the assistants who told me about some of the hundreds of interesting items available at the archives. There was a quilt made from soldiers' uniforms found shipwrecked on Sable Island. There was a photograph of Theodore Roosevelt with his four year old daughter sailing just off the coast of where we were, his daughter steering the enormous ship's wheel. There were too many things to list, although each fascinating in itself. I was eager to write it all down.

After spending most of the day filming, we hurried back to Shelburne where Finn Bower, of the Shelburne County Museum, was receiving accolades for thirty years of excellence with the museum. The lobby was packed with people, standing room only. Finn humbly listened to the countless praise of her peers before reading a fantastic letter. Tomorrow, Susan and I are filming there so I'll get a copy and post it here.

Shelburne, Barrington, Cape Sable and the end of lobster season

2010-07-12T15:40:39Z

We set off early this morning from Halifax in Susan's Saab, our bags filling the back and our special companion, a five foot inflatable lobster, taking up most of the back seat. Our companion was a surprise addition to the trip and added a certain level of hilarity.

Road trips invariably begin with Tim's coffee. We grabbed ours with spirits high, basking in the expectation of any road trip. We set out on Highway 103 West which gradually meanders south and west through Mahone Bay, Bridgewater, Liverpool, Shelburne, to Barrington before switching north. Our trip was to the South Shore, where we will continue to film our YouTube vignettes of archives and museums in an effort to promote the Routes to Your Roots application in the superbly revamped NovaScotia.com.

Our first destination was Shelburne. I read: "Described as 'one of the most culturally vibrant small towns in Canada', there is so much to enjoy." The town has an amazing history, known for the Loyalist Landing when 10,000 refugees from the American Revolution arrived in 1783. While driving in we were met with tall banners promoting their lobster festival which was set to begin on Friday. Mine and Susan's interest was immediately piqued. First, we had two places to visit: the Shelburne County Museum and the Shelburne County Archives & Genealogical Society Resource Centre. We weren't actually going inside today, just lining up video shots and taking as many photographs as possible.

Dock Street is by far, my favourite place in Shelburne. It's along the water, center stage for the entire waterfront district. We walked along the street taking in the Barrel Factory, the Dory Shop, Shelburne County Museum (where our video will be) and the impressive Cox's Store & Warehouse which stretches high above all other buildings. The entire district is crammed with areas of interest, I'll be writing more about them in days to come.

We had a picnic lunch on the green belt along the waterfront. Tuna fish sandwiches, banana bread and olives stuffed with feta. Susan ordered coffee from the Beandock restaurant while I finished off an extra large Red Bull.

With full stomachs and caffeine levels joyfully high, we embarked further south to Barrington. We stopped at the Barrington Visitor Information Centre to stock-up on pamphlets and ask questions to a bonafide local. The women working there were helpful and happy to see us, and after some chitchat, one lady suggested that we hurry to Cape Sable, to the wharf at Clark's Harbour where lobster fishermen were still pulling in the last of their traps for storage. Another lobster season was on the cusp of closing.

So we ran to the car and sped off, excited for the sudden mission. I insisted that we stop quickly at the Cape Sable Causeway for a few photos of me and my buddy, the gigantic lobster in the back seat.

At Clark's Harbour it was really windy and we squeezed our way past the trucks and vans loading up lobster traps. I set up the camera and protected my hat from escaping into the ocean. The lobster fishermen were indeed finishing things up. They're amazing to watch: so nimble and quick, throwing massive ropes and jumping between boats and the wharf. I looked at their faces for some sign of relief, hoping to see if they were satisfied with the season they had had.

We returned to Barrington, to the Cape Sable Historical Society. After another round of endless shots, angles and apertures, we wandered through the ancient graveyard across the street to the Seal Island Light Museum, an enormous lighthouse surrounded by the forest. I took the short trail through the trees to see the lighthouse in its entirety. Although only a replica of the top half of the original Seal Island Lighthouse, it's still really impressive.

We eventually headed back to Shelburne to finally check in at the Cooper's Inn. Tomorrow we'll work with some genealogists to fine tune their scripts for our videos and continue to film and photograph as much as we can. Still lots of stuff to see.

Welcome to Routes to Your Roots

2010-07-06T19:37:18Z

Follow blogger Phil Neville of the Council of Nova Scotia Archives as he tours around the province and visits our archives, sharing stories along the way.