Brendan and I had decided to stay in Advocate Harbour so that we wouldn't have far to drive before arriving at the Age of Sail Museum in Port Greville. I was disappointed with the weather: a solid mist covered with a dark, overcast sky. We were staying in the private cottage at Reid's Tourist Home which also functions as a working farm. By 6:00AM, I could see workers milling about the field from my window. Even a few deer approached the area curiously.
We grabbed a frugal breakfast from a gas station down the road and drove towards the Cape d'Or Lighthouse, just outside the Advocate area. Access to the lighthouse was a windy, dirt road. I was surprised by the number of deer that walked in front of our vehicle unconcerned by the threat of us.
We grabbed a frugal breakfast from a gas station down the road and drove towards the Cape d'Or Lighthouse, just outside the Advocate area. Access to the lighthouse was a windy, dirt road. I was surprised by the number of deer that walked in front of our vehicle unconcerned by the threat of us.
This was my first time at Cape d'Or and I couldn't believe how beautiful
it was. It's a must-see for anyone traveling around the province.
Many locals have called this section of coastline "the mini Cabot
Trail". The lighthouse was atop a perfectly manicured bright green
field of grass that tapered to a narrow point above the tumultuous Bay
of Fundy. The view of the cliffs from this point was stupendous. By
then, the sky had cleared somewhat revealing azure patches and morning
sun.
You can't drive by the Age of Sail Museum without staring. There are
several buildings surrounding a towering ship's mast and overlooking the
tidal Greville River. There's a blacksmith shop, the Port Greville
Lighthouse, a separate structure for bathrooms and a café/gift shop.
The largest building is the museum itself and it was here that we met
the friendly and welcoming curator, Oralee O'Byrne, as well as her
dutiful volunteer and husband, Jeff.
The museum is a collection of very well laid out displays and exhibits.
It's designed in a way to reflect the contour of ocean waves and with
many engaging displays reflecting such themes as lumbering,
shipbuilding, marine life and many items that immerse visitors in this important era of Nova Scotia's history. The majority of the museum is
virtually hands-on which is an amazing feature for the curious
individual or families with kids eager to see and touch everything. The
basement of the museum holds the largest collection of old tools that
I've ever seen. Oralee mentioned that the Age of Sail Museum held what
was probably the largest collection of wood planes in Canada.During our tour, Brendan and I viewed many important old documents including census records, published and unpublished genealogies, newspapers, scrapbooks, ledgers and a wonderful collection of old photos including many that showed the shipbuilding industry of the area.
Oralee invited us to stay for lunch in the museum café where Jeff stated
that we would find the best lobster roll anywhere. He was right! It
was delicious and could only be outdone by the scrumptious carrot cake
served for dessert.
After we finished filming the museum, Oralee suggested that we continue
to a look-off where the original shipbuilding wharf had stood before the
infamous "Groundhog Day storm of '76 destroyed it completely. Today,
where the Greville River reaches the Minas Basin, there's a large sign
card explaining the significance of the site and also a gorgeous vista
of seacoast and sandbar.
Next, we drove to the Hatfield Cemetery, a somewhat secret location to
all but locals. Oralee warned us that because the small cemetery was
located in the centre of a blueberry field, we may have a problem
gaining access because of the harvest. We saw a tractor making its way
across the blueberry field and received permission to walk to a small
site surrounded by iron chains and tall grass that exceeded the height
of any monument. The tombstones rose at odd angles, jutting up through
unrestrained overgrowth. The main monument celebrated the bicentennial
of Captain John Hatfield, the first British Loyalist granted land in the area.
With all obligations behind us, Brendan and I decided to stop at the Bare Bones Bistro in Parrsboro that had been recommended so many times throughout the trip. The serving sizes were large and plated well. Brendan opted for the seared scallops, double
smoked bacon and grilled vegetables with pernod cream while I had
sautéed chicken, bacon crisps and grilled peppers with a sun dried
tomato sauce. It was absolutely fantastic! The head chef, Glen
Wheaton, said that soon they would be revamping their menu with some
venison, it being now in season. I also chatted briefly with the
manager, Sue Wheaton, and complemented her on a pleasurable dining experience.
We decided to walk off our full stomachs at the trail system that led to
Economy Falls. After setting foot on the trail, it began to rain but I
didn't mind after the day we had. After a quick glimps of the falls
and with two days of jam-packed sightseeing behind us, we were ready to
return to Halifax.
Comments
Looks like a wonderful place to discover! I want to go!
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